O Porto que turista não quer (nem pode ainda) ver!
Afirma-se, ano após ano, como um destino turístico de eleição.
A sua cultura, gastronomia e arquitectura, aliadas à simpatia esventrada no sangue de qualquer gente do Norte, o Porto está de braços abertos para o mundo. Mas quem vem e atravessa o rio, Douro de seu nome, não se deve cingir à maravilhosa vista da Serra do Pilar, aos encantos da Baixa, nem tão pouco aos maravilhosos cheiros que percorrem a alma de quem passa (e não mais esquece) no Mercado do Bolhão. O Porto é tudo isso, mas muito mais.
Há quem nunca tenha subido as incontornáveis escadas da Torre dos Clérigos (é o meu caso), mas que já se deixou perder (e cansar) nas escadas dos Guindais. Sim, existem, lado a lado do famoso funicular. O grande exercício aeróbico permite depois uma degustação livre de remorsos na esplanada do Guindalense.
A mesma que os mais atentos turistas (voltamos ao percurso habitual) miram do tabuleiro superior da Ponte Luiz I, sem no entanto a conhecer. Aliás, a partir deste ponto poderemos observar também o Mosteiro de Santa Clara. Afirma-se imponente no topo da subida guindalense, mas encontra-se, neste momento, fechado para obras. As traseiras, no entanto, apresentam o prémio de consolação: passear em cima da muralha fernandina, com vistas invictas sobre o rio e a cidade.
Já se sabe que na descida a ajuda é divina: que o diga a recepção da confeitaria Serrana em S. Bento. A trinca num dos muitos pecaminosos doces deve ser acompanhada por um ligeiro levantar do queixo. Ali, é no tecto que está a Virtude. A mesma que dá nome a um dos jardins mais bonitos do Porto. Tem ganho protagonismo nos últimos anos, fruto de ser escolhido como palco de alguns eventos culturais. Nas traseiras do Tribunal, promete preencher as hashtags das galerias do Instagram.
Mas no que a jardins diz respeito, neste roteiro Serralves e o Palácio de Cristal não entram. Prefiro percorrer o Campo Alegre até ao Jardim Botânico, com a restaurada Casa da família Andersen (sim a da Sofia de Mello Breyner), as estufas, os diferentes ambientes criados pela imensa variedade de plantas e árvores ali existentes.É precisamente nesta Casa que podemos beber um chá.
A sobremesa ideal, talvez, após o abastecimento gastronómico na Adega Rio Douro (ou “Tasca da Piedade” como é conhecida). Situada na marginal entre Lordelo e a Cantareira, preenche o menu e o estômago com as iscas de bacalhau. Quanto à alma, beberá a vista dos pequenos barcos dos pescadores. O pôr-do-sol, a foz e o rio farão o resto
Já sob a luz da Lua, a recém remodelada Rua das Flores merece conhecer a sola de qualquer sapato.
É clichê, sim senhora, mas dos bons. Onde os novos velhos restaurantes convidam a uma degustação lenta e regada, mesmo para quem, como eu, não gosta de álcool. O mesmo que, aparentemente, transforma as Galerias de Paris na Roma portuense, com todos os caminhos da noite a lhe serem entregues sob o signo do protagonismo.
Joana Costa
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